
Make no mistake – this place is remote. And that is what makes it worth diving!
The heart of the Ring of Fire, and close enough to Raja Ampat to get similar biodiversity without the mushrooming tourism and… HAMMERHEADS and WHALES!
Banda is unique in the sense that it falls within the same coral triangle region as Raja Ampat (so you get a similar level of bio-diversity), but is also in the middle of deep waters, so you get a lot of big pelagic that aren’t as common in Raja. And because it is way, way, WAY off the tourist track, you will have most dive sites all to yourself. And for additional fun, the island that we will be based off is actually the caldera of a volcano. Ring of Fire indeed!
Vinnie first discovered Banda while on a liveaboard that stopped there for a night, way back in 2018. And since then, he’s been keen to return and spend more time exploring the waters there than afforded by a typical liveaboard itinerary. That’s what led to our 2 trips in 2025, and despite spending 20 days there, we didn’t
nearly have enough.
So we are coming back.

Make no mistake – this place is remote. And that is what makes it worth diving!
Banda Niera, the island where we will be based, is actually part of the caldera of a dormant volcano, Banda Api.
It’s a small, remote island 5.5 hours by boat from Ambon – one which is still getting used to the idea of tourism. Our group in 2025 was the first group from India and within 2 days, the entire island knew about us and we got regular smiles and waves as we walked around.

And the diving here is very unique – because Banda and the nearby islands are all volcanic, they are essentially sea mounts, with deep waters around them. That means frequent whale sightings and, of course, hammerheads, as well as more infrequent sightings of threshers and tigers. “Expect anything” is the motto here.
But because this is also at the periphery of the coral triangle, you get very high biodiversity – colorful corals cover the surface and top of the walls, and you get a reasonable percentage of the variety of Raja Ampat as well.
That makes for a very balanced diving, catering to all interests.
The plan is to do 3 days in Suanggi, 1 day in Rhun, 1 day in Hatta, 1 day diving Batu Pohol (Vinnie’s favourite site possibly of all time) and for the other 2 days, play it by the ear. But of course, all of this is subject to change, depending on the group’s preferences and prevailing conditions, more of which in the next section. First thing firsts – while hammerheads can be seen throughout the September-November period, earlier is better. But the downside is that the monsoons in the area run till August and so there is the risk of weather playing spoilsport.

For this trip, we are going for a home run: early in the season, before the liveaboards park themselves at Suanggi. We are also giving ourselves a reasonable margin for safety in terms of weather – by September, the seas should calm down and make it ok to go out to the far sites. But fair warning: climate change being what it is, no guarantees (that applies for other times of the year as well – even our November 2025 trip had a couple of days where we were forced to a plan B because of weather).
So in short- we are hoping for good enough weather to be the first to see the big schools of hammers, and expect the weather risk to be low: but even if weather does play spoilsport, we still have some amazing diving we can get to. It’s a judgement call, and we feel good about the odds (enough that Vinnie is trying to figure out a way to get from Banda to Galapagos in 2 days) – but of course, no guarantees.

The diving itself is mostly wall dives (with a couple of pinnacle dives). The typical profile is drop down along and slightly off the wall to look for hammers for a while and then shallow up and spend the rest of the dive on the reef, enjoying the colors and the coral.
So in terms of diving skills, this site is suitable for intermediate skill levels or higher: we’ll recommend Advanced/Deep certification, good buoyancy skills, the ability to do a safety stop without a line and the ability to ascent and descend in the blue without supervision or intervention are essential.
The guides are very helpful but also give divers a lot of freedom – so you need to be aware of your own air and NDLs, and not be reliant on someone else to watch over that for you. Lastly, the ability to deploy your SMB is important.
Nitrox is actually not recommended, despite the 3 dives a day – the main reason for that is that sometimes, you want the flexibility to go a little deeper if the hammers are lurking there. You can always shallow up on the wall once you run low on NDL, and still get a nice, long dive in.

Our stay will be at the Baba Lagoon hotel, with a great view of the volcano directly across the bay.
To set expectations – this is a fairly basic place. The rooms are clean, there is aircon, the dive shop is on the premises and the setup makes for a great place to hang out after dives. But fancy, it is not. And there is no hot water (which isn’t the end of the world – it is pretty warm out there!).

As far as food goes, breakfast is either fruit or eggs and toast. On diving days, you will get a tasty, vegetarian rice-based meal on the boat (included).
Dinner is not included to give us flexibility on dining options. Divers can order ala carte at the resort, or we can arrange a buffet via advance order or folks can choose to go out to eat at a few restaurants nearby (or even try some street food – which is basically home food sold off stalls by Bandanese ladies).
A word of warning here as well – don’t expect a lot of variety. Nasi or mee, chicken or fish… that’s gonna be the bulk of your options, although the hotel does a decent burger. Surprisingly, there are a good amount of vegetarian options for divers and the hotel’s dinner buffet is really good.
So there’s a theme – simple accommodation, simple food but great vibes and most importantly, excellent diving.
Price: $1700 per person sharing, $1900 per person single occupancy
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